
About 30km east of Calgari’s historic center lies the Sette Fratelli Regional Park. Although the Sucis Mountains southwest of the city are closer, something told me this would be a good place to find dirt. Our three subsequent scouting rides – including one when I nearly turned the Tenere into a submarine going through a puddle of unknown depth – confirmed my hunch.

The region is quite picturesque, but best enjoyed in person. The mountains rise up to nearly 1000m with views stretching for a good 100km. The Mediterranean disappears into the horizon to the south and the Sucis range is clearly visible to the west. Hard to capture on camera without specialized equipment. Min makes it look easy on her iPhone photo above. Poetto bay in the forefront, Monti del Sucis beyond. I failed on several attempts.

Up in the hills, the roads hide many an idyllic valley. As elsewhere in Sardinia, the succulents thrive and the traffic is light to non-existent.

To get here you need to turn off the SS125 west onto an unmarked road heading towards a pile of rocks called Giant’s Grave in English, or a much more sinister sounding Sa Dom’Γ¨ s’Orcu in Sardu. After much poking around and some dead ends, we eventually found just the right patch of dirt.

The trail starts as what we in the American southwest would call a forest or fire road. The surface consists mostly of packed dirt mixed with rock. Partially improved, with occasional wash outs. It begins at altitude, but runs mostly flat for the first kilometer or so. At that point, the road comes to a fork. The right side sits beyond a private gate, the left leads up into the mountains.
Continuing on the mountain fork, the trail begins to climb immediately. The grade is easy to moderate at first and ruts are few, but eventually a sharp turn reveals a whole different ball game. Rills are deep, lines of attack are few and engine guards suddenly have a purpose. Getting the bike out of a rut at grade on a solo ride could take a minute or two. On a scale from zero to ten, where zero is a flat forest road and ten the Erzerbergrodeo, I’d give what I could see up the hill a solid 4. This is where factory bash plates go to die.
I paused for a beat. Sitting atop a 100kg dirt bike is akin to riding a magic carpet as our friend Shaheen would say. A rating of 4 on the scale I just defined is not much to think about. The math is a bit different on an ADV bike weighing twice as much. Could I really pull it out of one of these ruts on my own? Won’t these rocks cut through the clutch plate like butter? On a one year journey like ours, you add a few more questions. Especially the one about eating the cake and having it, too. In other words, how much fun can I have without sabotaging the next stage.
You can find my answer to these questions in the 360 video below.
See if you can figure out where this got tricky π
And for those worried about their dentures, here’s a relaxing on-road alternative as Min takes us through a very pretty valley on the lowest of revs. Also in 360.
Oh yeah, this definitely looks like the Mexican counterpart where I stuck my bike in a giant butt crack. Slow down youβve got a big trip to do.
Great footage nonetheless!
Your giant crack stories is what immediately came to mind when I saw these rills. I guess these are pushing the definition of the word, not quite gullies yet. 360 exaggerates the speed π
Like all your trip on the bike wasn’t enough you have to search for those terrible road !
LOL. Well, this IS an adventure biking travel blog, Coco. Dirt is half the pleasure and half the experience π
definitely prefer Min’s road !
As I would expect from a Harley rider! π And we do enjoy both, hence both options are presented.
Ironically, the only reason I ride dirt today is because some 20+ years ago Min wouldn’t let me ride on the street π
Those bikes look made for rough roads. Good choice!
Hey Min, I just created an Instagram site for TuesdayNightDrawing. Nothing posted yet except a logo, but will be adding content very soon about the upcoming Portrait Project exhibit that opens March 20.
Hi John,
Thatβs an awesome idea!
I will look forward to seeing the instagram page π
Do still love the 360 footage, but that first one w/ you going through the town, was wonderful because you were passing so many sites to be “re-seen”. By that of course for the viewer, I could look fully left or right, stop the travel and look at anything a second or third time and really take in the culture. You also passed some great locations to look left or right to see the incredible views in the distance. Lovely travels w/ great tech, lol. Carry on my friends.
And O by the way, Igor’s riding what Igor rides, nothing new here. I do hope not to get any 360ΒΊ views from a hospital bed! π
I totally agree with you about the city footage, Todd. The minute I realized what this camera could truly do a peek at Cagliari became the very first thing I wanted to share. The path I chose, almost three weeks in now, is still one of the nicest rides through this city I’ve found. Will do something similar in Palermo soon.
As for my riding, trying to keep my demons at bay. Min pulled out a photo of my ’22 T7 up on Pacheco from about a week after I bought it. Looks a LOT more like the ’24 I have here than what sits in the garage in Santa Fe today. Still my favorite bike, but a good reminder π
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